The first rule of kumpir is to trust the process.
The real star of this Turkish dish (a stuffed baked potato) is not the potato itself but the toppings — and the options go far beyond the usual butter, cheese, sour cream or beans. Once out of the oven, the potato is split down the middle and mashed thoroughly with butter and cheese to form the base. Then the fun begins: you choose from a wide range of cold toppings such as sausage, pickled red cabbage, Russian salad, mayonnaise, ketchup, pickles, sweetcorn, olives and much more, and the person making your kumpir piles the potato as high as possible.
The most famous place to try kumpir in Istanbul is Ortaköy, known as “kumpir heaven”. A colourful row of kumpir stalls lines its waterfront square, impossible to miss — and whichever you choose, it will be a great choice.
